How to make Calendula & Activated Charcoal Shampoo Bar

Discover how to make Charcoal & Calendula Solid Shampoo

 

How to make Calendula & Activated Charcoal Solid shampoo

A cleansing and moisturising Shampoo Bar, beautifully cooked in my kitchen. 100% vegan 👩‍🍳🥣


Cold process Solid shampoo recipe for About 5 Bars of 80gr:


Oils & Butters:

50% Organic Coconut Oil (directly from my kitchen) - 150gr

25% RSPO Sustainably Sourced Palm Oil by The Soapery - 75gr

15% Cocoa Butter (the same i use for patisserie) - 45gr

10% Olive Oil - 30gr


Lye Solution

Lye - 46gr

Distilled Water - 110gr


Additives

2 Teaspoons of Activated Charcoal by Procoal

2 Teaspoons of Calendula's leaves


The story of this recipe starts on Sunday evening.

We were at  a friend's house, we had just finished dinner and we went back to the kitchen to prepare a detox infusion. It was one of that perfect after meal cocooning with close ones.

While I was searching for the tea bags in her storage, I saw this muffin mould and, suddenly, I started daydreaming about a Deep Cleansing Infused Soap. I ended up saying:

"Can i borrow this for one week?"

And this is how it started…


This homemade Solid Shampoo bar is a cleansing-conditioning companion for your gentle hair washes. What’s the benefit of Shampoo Bar vs normal liquid shampoo?

A Shampoo Bar is a low-poo free from any harsh chemicals, it doesn’t contain icky additives that you can find in commercial shampoos such as sodium lauryl sulfate and ammonium lauryl sulfate. Shifting to low-lather bar cleansers is a process along which you get your scalp used again to its natural balance.

Did you know that the more you strip away sebum from your scalp the more your scalp will produce it? This is one of the causes of oily hair. A Natural shampoo bar can bring your hair back to its original, shiny, voluminous state. It cleans without unnecessarily stripping off the natural moisture of the hair and scalp and it can take away residue left from the chemicals found in traditional hair cleansers. “Plus, since shampoo bars do not strip hair in the same way as detergent-based shampoos can, you will notice a difference in the way your wet hair feels after washing,” Jamyla Bennu, creator and Grand Mixtress of Oyin Handmade, says.


How does your hair feel? You hair, soon after the shower can feel “coated”. “This happens because the soap—which is saponified oils and an alkali—reacts with water when you use it, and this forms soap scum,” says Kirsten Connor, formulator and creator at Flourish Body Care. To avoid this, many bar shampoo users rinse with apple cider vinegar to remove the coating and shine their hair.

I personally didn’t use a vinegar wash afterwards and my hair did not feel weighed down. My hair is curly and thick. If your hair is thin you might need this.


For my 1st ever DIY Shampoo bar recipe i have selected a cleansing and yet gentle blend of Coconut Oil and RSPO Sustainably sourced Palm butter enhanced by the conditioning characteristics of Cocoa butter and olive oil. This Shampoo Bar is powered by two natural additives :




Activated charcoal: made by burning natural, carbon-rich materials (bamboo, wood, coconut shells, olive pits or coal) in low-oxygen concentrations, it is amazing for drawing out toxins and removing skin impurities. A good ally to remove the sebum and deep clean the pores to let your hair breathe.












Calendula Officinalis: high in flavonoids, its oil can be used to hydrate dry scalps and remove dandruff. Infused, this plant is a good remedy to relieve stomach upset, and that is the reason I have some dry leaves of calendula in my kitchen.


Check out here below how to make a Solid Shampoo Bar like the ones of Lush


Cold process Soap making requires important safety procedures along the different steps.

Please check them out before trying. Always use gloves and eye protectors along the process, be safe <3


Preparation: warm up your distilled water and leave the calendula leaves infused for one night while it cools down.


Step 1: Prepare your Lye solution with the infused water (always sprinkle lye over water and never the contrary since it might splash out of your container) and leave it aside to cool down until it reaches a temperature of about 30 °C. You can decide to filter out the dried calendula's leaves before doing so.


Step 2: While your lye solution is cooling down, measure out the oils and melt them in a bain marie pot. Let them cool down at approximately the same temperature of your lye solution. Use a laser or kitchen thermometer to check this.


Step 3: pour the lye solution inside the oils and mix it with a plastic tool (never use aluminium or steel since this might react with the free lye). You can use stainless steel though.


Step 4: use a blender to mix the ingredients until your solution becomes cloudy (always be careful with the blender, immerge it well to avoid splashing). Blend for at least 60 seconds with circular, never vertical, movements to avoid air to be captured by the solution (air tends to create not aesthetic bubbles in your final soap) .


Step 5: add the charcoal powder additives and blend them gently with a plastic spoon.


Step 6: pour your soap into a mould. If your mould is rigid, like the muffin one i used, layer the mould with baking paper to easily unmould your soap once solid. If you use a silicon mould you don't need to use any layering.


Step 7: create your ropes (about 5 cm) and insert them gently with a stick inside the soap (i used a toothpick and placed it in horizontal afterwards to keep the rope stable)


Step 8: let your soap cure for at least 48h. This is the time your lye solution needs to disappear completely into the reaction with oils.


After 48h you can unmould your Shampoo Bars and leave them curing in a dry place far from light and heat.

I normally leave them curing for at least 4 weeks to allow the leathering power to increase and the bars to become more firm and durable.


This is how my shampoo bar looked at its first usage. Just naturally perfect with creamy cleansing bubbles. My hair feels so soft.



Claudia

The beautiful spoon

"On a mission to steal cook’s ingredients & turn them into homemade beauty."
















 

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